Day 8
Day miles: 23
Trip miles: 145.2
We all woke up early in the tent area of Burro Mountain Homestead. I was up at 4am, since we were leaving at 5. The air was nice and crisp.
Our group of 5 set out together, namely because we were making a slight variation to an alternate route to get into Silver City, which was based on a map set that only Towely had. I had looked at it, and the idea was to wake forest roads down to highway 90, then head north on the highway to Silver City. Getting into Silver City requires a highway walk no matter how you slice it.
My one reservation with this plan was that we would pass near a mine, and often those areas are restricted. Well, after an hour or so, we ran into a gate. “No trespassing – active mine – danger” said the sign. Hmmmm.
What I am about to write now may or may not have happened. I am not saying that we went on private property, so let’s consider this a story about what might have happened. Here we go….
We couldn’t really go back at this point without backtracking serious miles, but we thought we saw a way back to public land after a third of a mile, so we jumped the fence. We picked up the pace and worked our way down the mine road. The mining operation was enormous. The tops of multiple mountains were just gone. There was a green tint to the rock, so I think it was a copper mine, but I suppose it may have been iron.
If you ever decide to walk through a large mining operation (not recommended), just know that mines are full of twisting roads that loop around and move trucks back to load and dump sites. They are basically mazes if you don’t know where you’re going. As blasting continues, roads might be rerouted. Therefore, your satellite images may not be accurate.
We looked for roads that weren’t there, and then started trying to follow one, but it was taking us into the center of the mine. It was 7am and we had no idea when they were going to start working. So much for just quickly passing through!
We decided to abort the mission and backtrack a few miles. We couldn’t go back all the way we came and still hope to make Silver City, but we found a road that skirted the boundary of the mine and eventually led out (after two fence hops) to a public road, that then later joined highway 90.
It was a bit tense at times. We did not want to get caught in the mine, we didn’t want to be there at all. But, in the end, we made it. I kept imagining blasting sirens going off and us diving into the woods. Fortunately there were no signs of activity on our end of the mine. Later we would see trucks pulling into the operation on the far end off of highway 90.
That mission added a few miles to what would have been an 18 mile alternate. Once we reached highway 90, it was a straight shot north into Silver City.
We made up a game I called Honky Tonk Truckers during the road walk. We each took turns when a huge semi truck would drive by, and we had to get them to blow their horns. We would make the air motion of pulling down on the horn cord in the cab of a truck. It was good fun. Truckers must really like hikers because we were something like 26 for 26 by the time we got into Silver City.
Along the way we encountered a house with a gravel driveway lined with toilets. Towely was up ahead, but the rest of us took a picture, each sitting on a toilet. I hope that person knows their driveway was well loved.
Before Silver City in the small town of Tyrone, we stopped at a Mexican restaurant. It was drive through only, but didn’t appear to be open. We knocked on the window, rang the buzzer – nothing.
Towely and Blueberry decided to stay and have a rest in the shade. Myself, Business and Storm Trooper pressed on. I just wanted to be done with the road walk.
Arriving in Silver City, the first priority was food. We found a Mexican food truck at the edge of town, dropped our packs down, and proceeded to order. I ate two burritos and drank two sodas. The food was delicious!
Towely and Blueberry caught up and we all walked downtown to the Ice Cream Emporium. The place had a nice array of flavors, and chocolate-dipped waffle cones with sprinkles. It was divine. I can’t even remember the flavors I had because they were mixes of multiple ingredients. After the ice cream, I was so full I could have fallen asleep.
We split into two groups – those staying downtown, and Stormy and I who were staying close to the trail and a Denny’s. I walked around looking for an outfitter with Leuko tape, but had no luck. My supply was getting low and I felt like I might run out trying to keep my feet taped in the Gila river.
I have a number of blisters, two of which are sore, but I am working through them. I know just having wet feet all day wading back and forth across the Gila isn’t going to help make my blisters any better, but it will be fun!
Stormy and I resupplied at The Food Basket rather than taking the bus to Walmart. We then took care of pre-rinsing clothes, then throwing them in the motel laundromat. I chatted with Gillian while monitoring laundry, and we capped the evening off with some Denny’s. I got a salad and onion rings.
Back at the room, our air conditioner sang a little song every time it stopped after reaching the target temperature. It sounded like someone was slowing letting air out of a balloon. It didn’t stop me from falling fast asleep, however.
I considered taking a zero [miles] in Silver City. It’s a great town and my feet would benefit from the rest. But, the fact that New Mexico keeps closing more and more areas due to fire precaution, I decided it was best to keep moving through the state relatively quickly.
Today I was grateful for my fellow hikers. It really made the road walk so much better! Of course, I was exotically thankful for the burritos I had. I wish I could have one at every meal moving forward!
Day 9
Day miles: 19.5
Trip miles: 164.7
I woke up and knew I was going to go ahead and hike out of Silver City. My blisters were good enough to hike on, and staying in town was not going to help me maintain that forward momentum. I love me some forward momentum.
Pursuing any big goal is somewhat simple. It comes down to small, bite-sized steps that, when taken repeatedly or persistently, become a great journey. If I boil any goal down to the basics of what is absolutely necessary to move the ball forward, making decisions becomes easier, and the big goal is no longer a big goal – it is a million little goals that are very achievable.
I’ve often heard aspiring entrepreneurs tell me they can’t start a business because they don’t know where to begin. We’ll talk about the steps that need to take place as they build said business, but then I’ll stop the conversation before their eyes fill up with overwhelming dread and say, “but all you need to do right now is get a customer.”
Without a customer, there is no business. Without taking steps north, I am not progressing on a thru-hike. And so I walk.
I took the Walnut Creek alternate out of Silver City. I took the regular CDT last time, so figured I would explore something new. Storm Trooper stayed at the motel, planning to hike out a bit later. The others were leaving later as well. I wanted to go slow and steady and enjoy a cool morning, which I did.
The Walnut Creek alternate is a road that becomes a dirt road, so nothing special really. I overshot the first water source that I needed by a mile, not paying attention. Ugh. The funny thing is, I stopped at the campground parking lot where the water spigot was on the way up. I ate a snack there and could have easily gotten water, but I didn’t think about it. Bonus miles!
On that note, the daily mileage I post is how many trail miles I walk per day. I don’t include “bonus” miles or walking in towns. Including those would be depressing. The trip miles is my running tally of trail miles. I’m really curious what the final number will be. CDT mileage depends on so many factors – routes chosen, routes created to deal with fire closures, etc.
The rest of the day went smoothly. It was hot. I was starting to get into deeper pine forests as I worked my way towards the Gila (pronounced “heela“) river. The trail is varied. After some time in the forest, I climbed up onto more of the volcanic rock terrain, and had wonderful views of cliffs and hoodoos in the distance.
I passed the “RegisTree” of Doug the Hermit, but did not see Doug. I met Doug in 2019. He lives a life of solitude at a monastery near the CDT. He keeps a register for hikers to sign, and often comes out to talk with hikers. He can definitely talk! I was a little relieved I didn’t run into him, only because I was completely out of water and so thirsty! Talking would have been painful.
I finally got water from a rather brackish source, then started a big climb that would end my day. I camped at the top of the ridge after that, tired and ready to be done for the day. I was 10 miles from the river.
Stormy passed me a while later while I was eating dinner. A hiker I hadn’t met yet, Draggin from San Diego, was with him. Draggin complained about his blisters. I know the feeling!
My feet held up well today. That alone makes it a good day! It was nice having a day of solitude. I wouldn’t want to be a hermit, but hermit for a day is ok. Tomorrow I will reach the Gila. I think my feet are ready. It’s time to do this!
Day 10
Day miles: 27.3
Trip miles: 192
I was hiking by 6 this morning. My campsite was nice and cozy with a pine needle base. I watched a mouse come out of a little cave it inhabited under a rock where I had sat the night before. I guess she was going to start her day as well.
The morning air was crisp and the hiking was good. I had two solid climbs, and then enjoyed some less intense, albeit rocky, terrain. The red volcanic rocks are hard and rough, so they can be quite tough on the shoes and feet.
I had some nice views of the surrounding mountains before beginning the descent into the gorge to the Gila. I passed Draggin on the side of the trail working to tape up his feet. I could empathize….
This year is incredibly hot and dry in New Mexico. In 2019, Sapillo Creek was full of water. As I crossed it just before the Gila, it was but a dry stream bed. It is so interesting to see New Mexico in two very different extremes! I think I prefer this one with less hail.
I met a hiker named Princess Anne at the confluence with the Gila. Stormy was there taking a break. That guy is a natural born hiker – the miles come easily (and quickly) to him. Princess Anne was the first hiker I’d met who was older than me. I’m not sure how old, but she has been making a name for herself on trail as fairly speedy.
Princess pushed ahead with the first river crossing while Stormy and I snacked and took a rest. After a bit, we headed out and immediately took a wrong turn….
We did not know we hadn’t gone awry, but things became strange quite quickly. We passed a group of cattle: a heifer and calf, and then off on their own, two bulls tied to small trees with rope. We walked past the first bull and it immediately started pawing the ground and lunging toward us, stretching its rope and bending the little tree. Stormy chuckled at how mad it was; I just walked faster. We then passed the second bull, who seemed to be even more intent on murdering us. I could see nothing but deep-rooted anger and bloodlust in his eyes. He pawed the ground and lunged. The rope held, but it was enough to make me jog by.
The bulls were like pure muscle, adrenalin, and dominance, wrapped up in a thick blanket of hatred. They would never be bred as beef cattle. Nobody wants to eat an anger burger. The way they hopped up and lunged so quickly and powerfully made me realize that without their being tied up, Stormy and I would be dead.
Of course, about 2 minutes after passing the bulls, we realized we had gone the wrong way and had to backtrack past them again. Noooooooo! I don’t know if any of you have ever run with the bulls in Pamplona, but I, for one, will not be trying that.
This time, the first bull was lying down. The minute he saw us he lunged up like a missile launch. I thought his rope was going to snap, so I took off jogging. Stormy, braver than I, was filming it all. The second bull lunged but I didn’t even look. I ran back to the Gila.
We didn’t see Princess Anne the rest of the day. I fear she took a long detour past raging bull alley. For her sake, I hope she didn’t try to pet them.
The Gila river section is absolutely gorgeous. It’s a fertile valley, but still high desert, so there is a wide variety of flora and fauna. Hikers cross the river hundreds of times over the course of a few days. The trail is hard to follow at times, but it is difficult to get lost (aside from that first turn!). It’s kind of like being in a giant pinball machine. I am the pinball, and the cliff walls are the bumpers.
In addition to stunning, stratified, red-hued cliff walls, I saw a few deer and some birds today. I walked steadily for most of the day. My feet felt good up until late afternoon, after which they started screaming at me.
I ran into Stormy off and on through the day. I met two other hikers from Wisconsin. It’s fun starting to see other hikers.
At the end of the day, I had already gone 25 miles and was ready to be done. Stormy and I found a hidden hot spring with a dipping pool. It was pretty cool, and not unlike the small one I found in 2019 and mistook for Jordan Hot Springs.
We wanted to camp by the hot springs, but the sun was beating down and there was little shade there. We pressed on looking for a good campsite.
The Goldilocks approach did not pan out. We walked and walked and did not find a suitable campsite. That said, we did end up walking down to Doc Campbells shop just in time to buy some food for dinner.
Doc Campbells is a little outpost along the Gila River. The family who runs it is super nice, and it is easy to resupply there. The proprietor swung by and opened the store for us. We chatted with him for a while, then I pigged out on a sandwich, microwave chimichanga, Reese’s cups and homemade butterscotch ice cream. I washed it all down with a root beer and a Dr. Pepper. If those raging bulls could see me now, they would be so mad!
Draggin showed up and the 3 of us pitched our tents in the yard behind Doc Campbells. We were able to shower off a bit there. I was incredibly dirty, and my facial hair is growing in like Jack from The Shining. My shoes were filled with sand and pebbles, so I cleaned them out a bit. Despite being sore, my feet are in ok shape.
I was grateful for beautiful scenery and some fun camaraderie today. I also enjoyed the smorgasbord at the end of the day. Tomorrow I will have a slow morning, eat a breakfast burrito at the store, then head out back into the river, with Pie Town on the horizon.
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